On Sunday 2 June we dropped Culter off at the Kennels and headed north for a cycle trip we’d planned months ago. Our first destination was Ullapool where we set up camp, for one night, and eventually found a pub, that wasn’t full, for a meal. It was wet, windy and, for June, cold.
We were up early the next morning to give us time to break camp, set up our touring bikes, park the car and have breakfast before catching the morning ferry to Stornoway on Lewis. All went smoothly but as we boarded the ferry as foot passengers it didn’t feel like June. Low cloud covered the hill tops and it was only 6c. More worryingly the sea looked choppy due to a stiff NW breeze.
Thankfully the crossing wasn’t too rough and we arrived on time.
The bikes felt heavy as we set off on the first short leg of our tour to the campsite on the edge of town. We hadn’t booked but that wasn’t a problem and we soon had the tent pitched. The warden warned us that the forecast wasn’t good but we were determined to have a go at completing our planned rides.
After lunch we set off to explore the east coast of Lewis, north of Stornoway, on a dead end road to the ‘Bridge to Nowhere’. The wind made riding quite difficult, either as a headwind or crosswind, but there were some great views.
The highlight of the ride was spotting at least one Minke Whale breaching close to shore.
As we headed back to the campsite we got some help from tailwinds. However, at one point we hit a headwind and it started to rain. We stopped to put waterproofs on and a bus pulled up alongside. It was empty and the driver asked if we wanted a lift. How could we refuse especially as we had our bus passes.
The campsite had excellent facilities including a small campers kitchen where we cooked tea and chatted to other cyclists. The unseasonal weather kept cropping up in all conversations.
Leaving Ullapool
Low cloud but some bright spells.
Tent pitched on the Stornoway campsite.
On route to the Bridge to Nowhere.
Some excellent beaches.
Superb coastal scenery.
The bay we spotted Minkes in.
Couldn’t resist a lift.
There was some heavy rain overnight but our pitch was quite sheltered so we slept pretty well. The aim for the day was to complete a circuit exploring the NW of Lewis and we headed out hoping to do so. It soon became apparent that this wouldn’t be easy as we battled into a cool headwind and things got rapidly worse. Large hailstones started to fall accompanied by lightening and thunder. All we could do was carry on and hope things would improve and for a while they did. However, it soon got worse. Susan couldn’t change gear due to cold hands and my bottom bracket started clunking away. We decided to turn and head back to the tent.
With a tailwind we flew back to town where we found a bike shop - the Hub Bike shop and Cafe. The owner checked my bike over and thought it might be my pedals causing the clunking. He kindly offered to loan me some pedals for a quick ride to see if this was the case - but first we had to visit the cafe. I had a delicious burger followed by a scone and coffee while Susan had a sausage roll, scone and tea.
Unfortunately switching the pedals didn’t stop the clunking which must have been coming from the bottom bracket. I decided to leave it to see what happened the next day.
Battling into the headwind but with some good views.
The first hail storm is on it’s way.
Some clear spells with great views but after a second hailstorm we turned.
Rather than sit around the campsite we walked into town to explore and buy some food. We again cooked at the campsite and chatted to other campers and cyclists.
It was quite a wild night with heavy rain, hail and gusty wind. With my bike problem we decided that our plan to cycle down to Harris in such weather was probably not wise. So we decided to cut our losses and head home.
We packed up between heavy showers then headed to the ferry port. It was easy to change our booking and we caught the afternoon ferry back to Ullapool.
The weather was pretty grim.
Typically as we set sail the weather improved and we had great views on route to Ullapool. Our decision to head home was, however, the right one. It remained windy, temperatures were as low as 4 c and light snow covered the higher hill tops. Unseasonal weather indeed!!!
Despite the weather, mechanicals and heading home early we had had a great fun trip.
Waiting for the ferry.
Leaving Stornoway.
Great views approaching Ullapool.
Ullapool.
Ready to disembark and head for home.
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