Italy - Part 2: Dobbiaco / Toblach.
For the second half of our Dolomite trip we based ourselves in the delightful town of Dobbiaco. This is it's Italian name but this area of the Dolomites is also German speaking so it also goes by the name of Toblach. Our 'home' for the week was a Studio in Rienzner Apartments and it was an ideal base for a week's walking and peak bagging.
Rienzer Apartments.
The view from outside the Apartments.
The Apartment had bikes available for our use.
Heading to the shops.
Cycling through the town square.
Sunday 11 September - After a good first night in the Studio we were up and out early to climb Pausa Ganda (2130m). The route started on the outskirts of town and climbed mainly through forest. We did, however, get some good views through breaks in the trees. After 3 hours we emerged from the forest and climbed the final few meters to a small summit adorned with a large cross. It was a cloudier day and there were some heavy showers on the walk back to town after an Apple Strudel break in the Haunoldhutte.
We had an excellent meal in the Studio and an evening stroll around town before planning the next route and heading to bed.
Monday 12 September - Another good nights sleep but I mis-set the alarm and got us up at 5.30!!!! We were dressed before realising the error so set off earlier than planned to the Bakers for bread and a wee treat. Our objective was the 2380m Sarlkofel an impressive hill to the SW of town. It was a beautiful day and the climb gave stunning views. The final section involved some exposure and easy scrambling but we were pleased to beat the guide time by 30 minutes.
On the descent we had a 'scary' time with a herd of cows. We came across a fence enclosed hut with a lovely 'picnic table' and bench so decided to have lunch. In what seemed like seconds a herd of cows charged across the pasture and surrounded us. This was obviously the 'Cow Herders' hut and they wanted feeding!!! They were BIG and very excited and we were stuck. Eventually, when they'd settle a little, we snuck around the back of the hut climbed the fence and slowly made our exit hoping not to hear them charging after us!!!!! We won't repeat the error.
The remaining descent was very steep so on reaching Lago di Dobbiaco we treated ourselves to a drink along with an ice cream and fruit dessert - superb. On the walk back to the Studio there was a heavy thundery shower but this didn't spoil an excellent eventful day out.
After a Steak and a wander around town we were in bed early.
Tuesday 13 September - We woke to another clear sky and headed out at around 7.30am to catch a bus to Sesto. We had two peaks to climb M. Casella di Fuori (2004m) and M. Casella di Pentro (2065m). Although much of the route was through trees we got some stunning views especially from the two tops and it was a cracking day out.
After an Ice Cream back in Dobbiaco we took the 'Apartment Bikes' out for the first time to do a wee bit of shopping. They were great fun although we didn't fancy riding them very far.
Wednesday 14 September - Whilst planning the holiday at home we'd discovered that a cycle track runs for 30km between Dobbiaco and Cortina so we hired mountain bikes and headed of to ride it 'there and back'. The weather was stunning and the riding quite easy. We climbed steadily out of Dobbiaco for about 18km and then it was downhill all the way to Cortina where we couldn't resist an ice cream. The route back was the same but as the views were different it didn't matter. A fun day out rounded off with a drink and ice cream at Largo di Dobbiaco. A pair of cycle shorts wouldn't have gone a miss!!!!
Thursday 15 September - After a great night's sleep we were up early as we had a big day planned. We caught a 'City Bus' up to nearby Wahlen and then headed off to climb the Pfannhorn (2663m) on the Italian / Austrian border. It was a cloudier day and the hills to the north of Dobbiaco reminded us of home. They are more rounded and vegetated than those to the south. We set a steady pace and summited much quicker than expected. This was to be the busiest hill of the week as a large group of older walkers from Austria were out for the day to climb it along with several other smaller groups.
On the descent we stopped at the Rifugio Bonner Hutte and had a Goulash with dumplings washed down with Skiwasser. It was a long way down so I had to have an ice cream back in town before we went 'home' for a snooze!!
After another excellent tea we went for a wander under a full moon - the perfect end to another great day out.
Friday 16 September - Our final day in the mountains. As we'd enjoyed the food in the Rifugio Biella on our 'Hut Tour' we decided to revisit. We caught the bus back to Largo di Braies which was much quieter this time and headed of at a steady pace for the Rifugio taking a sightly different route. It was a much cooler and cloudier day and it was clear that the weather was changing. Our time to the hut was much faster due mainly to our lighter packs and we had to wait a while for lunch. The Spaghetti Bolognese was excellent but we resisted a beer as it was a long way back to the bus stop. It was a good way to end our two weeks in the mountains and we felt very much at home in them. We will be back.
Overnight it poured down with rain and we left at 6.00am on Saturday to bus down to Venice. Snow had fallen high on the mountains and streams poured down their sides as we travelled south. However, on leaving the mountains the sky brightened and we arrived in Venice in hot sunshine to start the next part of our trip.
We had an excellent meal in the Studio and an evening stroll around town before planning the next route and heading to bed.
Monday 12 September - Another good nights sleep but I mis-set the alarm and got us up at 5.30!!!! We were dressed before realising the error so set off earlier than planned to the Bakers for bread and a wee treat. Our objective was the 2380m Sarlkofel an impressive hill to the SW of town. It was a beautiful day and the climb gave stunning views. The final section involved some exposure and easy scrambling but we were pleased to beat the guide time by 30 minutes.
On the descent we had a 'scary' time with a herd of cows. We came across a fence enclosed hut with a lovely 'picnic table' and bench so decided to have lunch. In what seemed like seconds a herd of cows charged across the pasture and surrounded us. This was obviously the 'Cow Herders' hut and they wanted feeding!!! They were BIG and very excited and we were stuck. Eventually, when they'd settle a little, we snuck around the back of the hut climbed the fence and slowly made our exit hoping not to hear them charging after us!!!!! We won't repeat the error.
The remaining descent was very steep so on reaching Lago di Dobbiaco we treated ourselves to a drink along with an ice cream and fruit dessert - superb. On the walk back to the Studio there was a heavy thundery shower but this didn't spoil an excellent eventful day out.
After a Steak and a wander around town we were in bed early.
Tuesday 13 September - We woke to another clear sky and headed out at around 7.30am to catch a bus to Sesto. We had two peaks to climb M. Casella di Fuori (2004m) and M. Casella di Pentro (2065m). Although much of the route was through trees we got some stunning views especially from the two tops and it was a cracking day out.
After an Ice Cream back in Dobbiaco we took the 'Apartment Bikes' out for the first time to do a wee bit of shopping. They were great fun although we didn't fancy riding them very far.
Wednesday 14 September - Whilst planning the holiday at home we'd discovered that a cycle track runs for 30km between Dobbiaco and Cortina so we hired mountain bikes and headed of to ride it 'there and back'. The weather was stunning and the riding quite easy. We climbed steadily out of Dobbiaco for about 18km and then it was downhill all the way to Cortina where we couldn't resist an ice cream. The route back was the same but as the views were different it didn't matter. A fun day out rounded off with a drink and ice cream at Largo di Dobbiaco. A pair of cycle shorts wouldn't have gone a miss!!!!
Thursday 15 September - After a great night's sleep we were up early as we had a big day planned. We caught a 'City Bus' up to nearby Wahlen and then headed off to climb the Pfannhorn (2663m) on the Italian / Austrian border. It was a cloudier day and the hills to the north of Dobbiaco reminded us of home. They are more rounded and vegetated than those to the south. We set a steady pace and summited much quicker than expected. This was to be the busiest hill of the week as a large group of older walkers from Austria were out for the day to climb it along with several other smaller groups.
On the descent we stopped at the Rifugio Bonner Hutte and had a Goulash with dumplings washed down with Skiwasser. It was a long way down so I had to have an ice cream back in town before we went 'home' for a snooze!!
After another excellent tea we went for a wander under a full moon - the perfect end to another great day out.
Friday 16 September - Our final day in the mountains. As we'd enjoyed the food in the Rifugio Biella on our 'Hut Tour' we decided to revisit. We caught the bus back to Largo di Braies which was much quieter this time and headed of at a steady pace for the Rifugio taking a sightly different route. It was a much cooler and cloudier day and it was clear that the weather was changing. Our time to the hut was much faster due mainly to our lighter packs and we had to wait a while for lunch. The Spaghetti Bolognese was excellent but we resisted a beer as it was a long way back to the bus stop. It was a good way to end our two weeks in the mountains and we felt very much at home in them. We will be back.
Overnight it poured down with rain and we left at 6.00am on Saturday to bus down to Venice. Snow had fallen high on the mountains and streams poured down their sides as we travelled south. However, on leaving the mountains the sky brightened and we arrived in Venice in hot sunshine to start the next part of our trip.
Back in Venice - the Grand Canal.
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