Italy - Part 1: a Dolomite Hut Tour.
On Saturday 3 September we left home at 1.30am and drove to Manchester airport to catch our flight to Venice and the start of our wee Italian adventure. By 11am local time we were sitting in Marco Polo Airport waiting for a bus to take us north to the 'posh' resort of Cortina. From here it was onto another bus which took is further north to the small town of Dobbiaco [Toblach] the starting point of our planned 7 day mountain hut tour. We arrived at around 5.45pm and checked into our hotel where we sorted our kit to allow us to leave a bag for collection at the end of the tour. After a quick look around the town we ate in the hotel and were in bed at 10pm. A long day.
Our Hotel in Dobbiaco.
The view from our balcony.
Susan relaxing in between packing her sac.
On Sunday we were up early and down to breakfast as soon as possible. We left the hotel at 8.30am and walked to the bus station to catch the 9.05am bus to Lago di Braies the official starting point of the Alta Via 1. This long distance path is one of six that traverse the Dolomites from north to south and our plan was to follow it for the next 3 days. The bus was very busy and the day bright and warm. The journey took about 30 minutes and we were soon on route to our first hut the Rifugio Biella. With heavy sacs we adopted the classic alpine plod and soon got into a rhythm. The views were excellent and I slowed us down with frequent picture stops. Despite this we passed several other 'teams' and within 4 hours had reached the superbly situated hut. We checked in and to our surprise had a wee room for two. Lunch was a very good Spaghetti Bolognese washed down with Skiwasser.
As it was still early we decided to pack one sac and head out to climb Croda del Becco (2810m) the peak above the hut. The route looked pretty steep but wasn't too bad. As it was late in the day the hill was very quiet and we had the summit to ourselves. The views were very good despite a darkening sky which hinted at rain. By 4.20pm we were back in the hut and the rain had started. We had a celebratory beer followed by an excellent 3 course meal and a late wine before bed. An excellent first day.
As it was still early we decided to pack one sac and head out to climb Croda del Becco (2810m) the peak above the hut. The route looked pretty steep but wasn't too bad. As it was late in the day the hill was very quiet and we had the summit to ourselves. The views were very good despite a darkening sky which hinted at rain. By 4.20pm we were back in the hut and the rain had started. We had a celebratory beer followed by an excellent 3 course meal and a late wine before bed. An excellent first day.
It was wet and windy overnight but fortunately the rain had stopped when we got up for breakfast at 7am on Monday. By 8.15am we were on the trail and again adopted a slow plod despite it being much cooler. The first part of the day was a long descent to the Rifugio Pederu where we had lunch before a climb back up to 2023m. This was the most scenic part of the day and led to our destination the Rifugio Lavarella. This was a swish hut and again we were surprised to have a room for two. There was no peak to climb nearby but we had a good wander before tea in some lovely light. We ate well and had another early night.
We slept very well a rose early on Tuesday to a bright if somewhat breezy day. After an excellent breakfast we packed slowly and headed off at 8.00am. We climbed steadily to Fannes Grande and then Passo Tadega. In the clear air the views were stunning which meant several photo stops. At the 2117m junction we started to climb again to Col Locia and when we arrived we were reward with an excellent view of Piz Boa a 3000m peak we climbed in 2015 from Corvara. We had rest to take in the view and then started a long descent to Capanna Alpina where we had a refreshing Ice Cream before climbing steeply again to our destination Rifugio Scatoni. Our room was a Dorm for 6 but there was no sign of anyone else at this time.
After a late lunch in the hut we headed out to climb a wee peak (M. Sellares 2500m). This gave more great views of the areas we visited in 2015. Back at the hut we showered and had a wee beer before our 'room mates' arrived. The evening meal was again 3 courses and was great. We watched darkness fall outside and went to bed early. Another superb mountain day.
Despite some snoring from our German roommates we had some good sleep and were up early on Wednesday morning. It was going to be a long day. Breakfast was again very good and we hit the trail at 7.50am just as the sun was catch the mountain tops. It was cool to begin with and the clear air gave outstanding views as we climbed to Forcella Lagazuoi and then Forcella col dei Bos. From here we traversed the very foot of Tofana di Rozes which felt quite exposed in places before descending to Rifugio Dibona. Here we had an early pasta lunch before dropping down to the road to Cortina. We had read that it was possible to catch a bus here but there was no timetable so we set off walking. Initially this wasn't very pleasant on the road but we then discovered a path not show on the map which took us more pleasantly into town and our luxury night in Hotel Columbia. We'd been on the go for nearly 8 hours so jumped into the shower before heading out to explore the town and have a huge Pizza. Sleep came quickly after that!!
We slept well again and got up to get an early breakfast on Friday. We then walked to the bus station and caught the 8.05am bus to the 'Tre Cima stop'. From here we headed of along Route 102 for the Locatellie Rifugio. The trail was initially quiet but as we neared the hut it got busier. This was not surprising as the views of the north face of the Tre Cima were amazing. On reaching the hut we had a piece of delicious Black Forest Gateaux while we waited for booking in time. Yummy!
Just after 1pm we were allocated our beds in a large dormitory. Luckily they were adjacent bottom bunks but we doubted we'd get much sleep. After a wee rest we packed a sac and headed out to walk up to the base of the Tre Cima. The views were stunning and couldn't resist taking lots of photos.
Tea was at 7pm and we were amazed at the quality of all 3 courses. Afterwards we sat outside and watched the moon rise over the mountains before heading to bed at about 9.45pm.
With the aid of ear plugs we slept really well but were up early on Friday as we knew it would be a long day on the hill. We'd packed before breakfast so were on the go by 7.40am - the weather was again excellent and the views incredible. Our route took us over two cols. The first, Focella di S. Candido (2381m), was easy and was followed by an 800m descent on which we met several parties heading for the Locatellie. The second was very different. Firstly we met no one else and secondly it was much more difficult with steep loose ground on both ascent and descent. There were again stunning views but we were glad when we safely reached the road after 8 hours on the go. A final 20 minute walk took us to Hotel Baur on the shores of Lago di Dobbiaco and our bed for the night. It was a characterful place and we had a later night after a beer and tea.
Saturday was to be a much easier day so we had a lie in and a late breakfast before heading out for a walk around Lago di Dobbiaco without our sacs. This gave some good views on another bright day. By 9.00am we were back at the hotel and having picked up our sacs we walked slowly into Dobbiaco. We lunched in a wee cafe and then went to check into Rienzer Apartments to start our 'centre based' second week in the Dolomites.
We slept very well a rose early on Tuesday to a bright if somewhat breezy day. After an excellent breakfast we packed slowly and headed off at 8.00am. We climbed steadily to Fannes Grande and then Passo Tadega. In the clear air the views were stunning which meant several photo stops. At the 2117m junction we started to climb again to Col Locia and when we arrived we were reward with an excellent view of Piz Boa a 3000m peak we climbed in 2015 from Corvara. We had rest to take in the view and then started a long descent to Capanna Alpina where we had a refreshing Ice Cream before climbing steeply again to our destination Rifugio Scatoni. Our room was a Dorm for 6 but there was no sign of anyone else at this time.
After a late lunch in the hut we headed out to climb a wee peak (M. Sellares 2500m). This gave more great views of the areas we visited in 2015. Back at the hut we showered and had a wee beer before our 'room mates' arrived. The evening meal was again 3 courses and was great. We watched darkness fall outside and went to bed early. Another superb mountain day.
Despite some snoring from our German roommates we had some good sleep and were up early on Wednesday morning. It was going to be a long day. Breakfast was again very good and we hit the trail at 7.50am just as the sun was catch the mountain tops. It was cool to begin with and the clear air gave outstanding views as we climbed to Forcella Lagazuoi and then Forcella col dei Bos. From here we traversed the very foot of Tofana di Rozes which felt quite exposed in places before descending to Rifugio Dibona. Here we had an early pasta lunch before dropping down to the road to Cortina. We had read that it was possible to catch a bus here but there was no timetable so we set off walking. Initially this wasn't very pleasant on the road but we then discovered a path not show on the map which took us more pleasantly into town and our luxury night in Hotel Columbia. We'd been on the go for nearly 8 hours so jumped into the shower before heading out to explore the town and have a huge Pizza. Sleep came quickly after that!!
We slept well again and got up to get an early breakfast on Friday. We then walked to the bus station and caught the 8.05am bus to the 'Tre Cima stop'. From here we headed of along Route 102 for the Locatellie Rifugio. The trail was initially quiet but as we neared the hut it got busier. This was not surprising as the views of the north face of the Tre Cima were amazing. On reaching the hut we had a piece of delicious Black Forest Gateaux while we waited for booking in time. Yummy!
Just after 1pm we were allocated our beds in a large dormitory. Luckily they were adjacent bottom bunks but we doubted we'd get much sleep. After a wee rest we packed a sac and headed out to walk up to the base of the Tre Cima. The views were stunning and couldn't resist taking lots of photos.
Tea was at 7pm and we were amazed at the quality of all 3 courses. Afterwards we sat outside and watched the moon rise over the mountains before heading to bed at about 9.45pm.
With the aid of ear plugs we slept really well but were up early on Friday as we knew it would be a long day on the hill. We'd packed before breakfast so were on the go by 7.40am - the weather was again excellent and the views incredible. Our route took us over two cols. The first, Focella di S. Candido (2381m), was easy and was followed by an 800m descent on which we met several parties heading for the Locatellie. The second was very different. Firstly we met no one else and secondly it was much more difficult with steep loose ground on both ascent and descent. There were again stunning views but we were glad when we safely reached the road after 8 hours on the go. A final 20 minute walk took us to Hotel Baur on the shores of Lago di Dobbiaco and our bed for the night. It was a characterful place and we had a later night after a beer and tea.
Saturday was to be a much easier day so we had a lie in and a late breakfast before heading out for a walk around Lago di Dobbiaco without our sacs. This gave some good views on another bright day. By 9.00am we were back at the hotel and having picked up our sacs we walked slowly into Dobbiaco. We lunched in a wee cafe and then went to check into Rienzer Apartments to start our 'centre based' second week in the Dolomites.
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