Zermatt.

The forecast for our second week in the Alps was excellent so we were hopeful of climbing Susan's first 4000m peak the Breithorn - which I've climbed 3 times before.

Sunday 11 August - We wanted to get above 3000m to aid our acclimatization so headed out to climb the Oberothorn (3465m). We caught the Sunnegga Alpine Metro to gain some initial height and were disappointed to emerge into cloud. The forecast suggested that this would break up and within an hour it did to give us same amazing views. We again beat guide time to the summit but did not have it to ourselves.
On descent we headed first to the mountain hut at Fluhalp where we had a refreshing beer before returning to Sunnegga via the lake at Stellisee. A great first day above Zermatt.

A disappointing cloudy start to the climb.

The cloud soon began to break and we climbed above what remained - the views were stunning:

Susan 'pulling' on fixed rope on a slab section of the climb.

The only way is up.

On the summit.

The summit view west.

Two view east on the descent.

Another view of 'that mountain'.

A refreshing beer at Fluhalp - 'that mountain is there again'.

The lake at Stellisee.

Looking back to Fluhalp.

On the descent to Sunnegga Metro Station.

Monday 12 August - We set off early under a clear blue sky aiming to walk from the valley floor to over 3000m on the Platthorn (3345m). Susan set a cracking pace and we 'smashed' the guide time to the Hotel du Trift. Beyond this the route was not clear so we changed plans and climbed the Wisshorn (2928m). From it's summit the route to the Platthorn was cleared so we set off to give it another go. We got to over 3000m but then came across a steep snowfield. As this looked a little 'dodgy' to cross in our fell shoes we decided to turn and head for town. It was a long way down so we stopped at the Edelweiss Hut for refreshments. A good and long day out despite not reaching the planned summit.

Susan charging up the Trift Valley.

Arriving at the Hotel du Trift well inside guide time.

The Matterhorn from the slopes of the Wisshorn.

The summit of the Wisshorn with the Platthorn in the background.

Heading for the Platthorn.

Just below our high point.

Stunning views on the descent.

Nearly back to Trift.

Descending the beautiful Trift Valley.

Arriving at the Edelweiss Hut.

The view down to Zermatt from the Hut balcony.

Back to Zermatt.

Tuesday 13 August - This was our last chance to acclimatize for the Breithorn so on another stunning morning we headed out to climb up to the Hornli Hut on the Matterhorn.  We gained easy height by taking the cable car to Schwarzee where we were surprised to find a cool breeze blowing from the NW. We had the trail to ourselves for most of the ascent which was great and again beat guide time. Much of the hut was closed as it's being extended and modernized. The project won't be finished until 2015 and the hut will be completely closed next summer. 

We spent some time above the hut watching people returning from and setting off to climb the Matterhorn. Some of those descending looked 'dead on their feet' but the stand out team was a group of 5 eastern Europeans setting off to climb the ridge - 4 of whom were below the age of 15!!! We hope they summited and got down safely.

On our return to Zermatt we got ready for our planned Breithorn ascent. As this was Susan's first glaciated peak we decided to book a guide just in case.

Heading out from the cable car station.

The lake at Schwarzee.

The climb up to the hut is varied and always interesting - some sections have aids.

Susan arriving at the hut.

Our high point - the ridge beyond is very foreshortened in this photo - it's a long way to the top!! 

Susan 'pretending' to be a Matterhorn climber.

The descent gave stunning views to the east.

A great place to have lunch out of the cool wind.

Almost down.

Making sure the boots and crampons still fit.

Wednesday 14 August - We were meeting our guide at 7.30 am so we were up at 6. Disappointingly cloud covered the sky. Would we get up and have a view? The guide 'Richard' told us that it would be clear above 3000m so we were more optimistic when we got into the Telecabin up to Kleinne Matterhorn. As my altimeter reached 3050m we broke out of the cloud and could see all of Zermatt's 4000m peaks - amazing!!!

We roped up inside the cable car station and then headed out in bright sunshine on to the glacier. It was clear that we would not have this summit to ourselves but it still felt great to be back out on a big hill.

Richard set a typical 'guides' pace across the Breithorn pass towards the south face. As the slope steepened we  stopped to put crampons on (Susan was pleased to beat me and the guide at this) and take some photos. It was then off again at a steady pace which saw us passing several parties gasping for breath. Our preparation must have been good as it felt easy and all to soon we were on the summit ridge and then the top. The views were amazing and we spent some time taking them in and taking pictures.

The descent took us past several parties and we were glad to have got up earlier. The whole route took about 3 hours and on reflection we could have done it without the guide but we'd have needed to take more kit out with us and it was reassuring to have his back up on Susan's first real alpine route (PD-).

Back in Zermatt we had a celebratory 'tart' and, as it was early, then decided to have a wander up to the beautiful village of Zmutt for a beer.   

A fantastic day in the Alps with a taste of everything they have to offer.

Leaving the Kl. Matterhorn Cable Car Station on the summer ski piste.

Starting to climb across the glacier.

Heading for the south face above the visible bergshcrund.

Good to be back on a 4000er.

Looking west to Mt. Blanc.

'I got my crampons on first' - looking south into Italy.

Richard ready to lead us up the steeper summit slopes.

Susan at the 4000m mark in perfect conditions.

On the summit ridge looking east to Liskamm and the Monte Rosa.

Just like a Lakeland summit.

Enjoying a seat, drink and a bar.

My altimeter was 10m out on the summit which is at 4160m.

The superb view north from the summit.

The final summit pose with the Matterhorn as a backdrop.

Celebrating with a fruit tart back at the apartment.

Susan fills her water bottle in old Zermatt ready for the walk to Zmutt.

The beautiful Zmutt village.

Another traditional village - Zum See.

Thursday 15 August - We wanted to get a good view of the Monte Rosa - Breithorn chain from Gornergrat but wanted a decent walk to get there. So on another stunning morning we caught the Alpine Metro to Sunegga. From here we walked to the lake at Grunsee and then climbed a fantastic trail to Hohtalligrat (3130m) above Gornergrat. This was an excellent view point and the ridge down to Gornergrat was interesting. We had these trails pretty much to ourselves so it was a shock to arrive at Gornergrat with it's crowds and on this occasion loud music. We left quite quickly a walked down past the mighty Riffelhorn to Riffelberg where we caught the train back to Zermatt. Another great hill day.

We saw many Marmot during our trip but this is the closest we got to one.

The stunning lake at Grindjiisee.

Another beautiful lake at Grunsee.

Looking at some fantastic lateral moraine - a geographers paradise.

The empty trail towards Hohtalligrat.

Another fabulous alpine day.

The view we wanted the Monte Rosa to Breithorn chain.

Starting the high level ridge to Gornergrat.

Great views all the way down.

Passing the mighty Riffelhorn.

Our train back to Zermatt.

Friday 16 August - With so many trails left to walk and another perfect forecast it was hard to decide what to do on our last day in Zermatt. We chose to head up to the Gandeggghutte at the head of the valley to have a look at the crossing of the Theodulglacier - a part of the Tour du Monte Rosa which we fancy doing in the future. From here we followed the glacier trail below the Matterhorn back to Schwarzee and the cable car back to Zermatt. It was a good choice. The trail up was again empty and the trail down took us close up to Zermatt's iconic mountain once more. A great way to end yet another brilliant alpine holiday.

On the trail up to the Gandegghutte - great views all the way and we had it to ourselves.

The Gandegghutte looking north.

Susan admires the Breithorn from outside the hut.

Me, the hut and the Breithorn.

On the glacier trail.

Getting 'a bit carried away' on the glacier trail.

Our last alpine lunch stop.

Swiss horn players arrived en masse in Zermatt on Friday evening for a gathering at Gornergrat on Saturday.

Saturday 17 August - Another perfect morning made leaving for home even harder than normal. We had a final wander around town in the morning before catching a mid-day train to Visp and then Geneva Airport. Swiss Rail did let us down this time and Easyjet got us back to Edinburgh on time. We were already making plans for next summer.