Zillertal Alps, Austria.
We got back at the weekend from a great two week holiday in the Zillertal Alps, Austria. The following is a picture diary of our trip.
Day 1 - Flew from Edinburgh to Munich and travelled on to Innsbruck by train. Stayed in an Innsbruck hotel for the night.
Day 2 - Travelled by train to Jenbach and then on to Mayrhofen our base for the next two weeks. Spent the afternoon exploring the town under blue skies.
Susan in Innsbruck's old town.
Catching the Zillertal train from Janbach to Mayrhofen.
The excellent Pension Birkenhof - our main base for two weeks.
Day 3 - Headed out on a 11km ridge walk from Mayrhofen to Ramsau via Sonnalm. The day started dry but the skies soon darkend and we walked most of the way in rain. Caught the train back to Mayrhofen from Ramsau. Disappointing weather but a good day out.
The start of the route.
A wee church near the start of the ridge.
Sheltering from the rain for a cup of tea at one of the 'huts' on route.
Day 4 - Disappointingly the rain continued all night and through most of the day. We were determined not to let it get us down and went for a valley walk to Hippach / Ramsau after I'd bought a umberella - an essential piece of kit in the alps. The round trip was about 10km.
A brighter spell on route to Hippach.
In a field of Maize in the rain.
Day 5 - The planned start of our hut to hut trek and thankfully the weather had improved so we decided to go for it. We caught a minibus from the Tourist Information Office in Mayrhofen to the Grune Wand Hut and then walked steeply up to the Kasseler Hut. We had a room booked but the hut was very quiet with only 6 other people staying overnight. The Guardian was very helpful and promised us good weather for most of the following day. We had a 3 great course meal and went to bed early.
Our intended route from the Kasseler Hut to the Gams Hut via the Greizer, Berliner, Furtschagl, Olperer and Friesenberg Huts.
Starting the walk in.
Nearly there - taken by a German couple who told us we were 'in good condition'.
The Kasseler comes into view.
Clearing evening skies - taken from the hut.
An early night for Susan in her top bunk.
Day 6 - 'It's snowing' - I thought Susan was having me on but she wasn't. The Guardian assured us that it would stop and that the route was easy to follow so after breakfast we set off for the for the Greizer Hut in full waterproofs and wearing hat and gloves. The route traversed to begin with and care was needed on slippery rocks especially when the slope below dropped away steeply. There was no sign of any improvement as we started the climb up to the col we had to cross and we had to move very carefully over snow covered boulder fields. Our Scottish winter experience certainly came in handy. We passed a couple of parties descending from the col including an Irish group who had found the crossing very intimidating. The top was quite wintery with icicles hanging from rocks but we soon dropped below the snow line on the other side and as promised the weather then began to improve. We reached the hut in sunshine taking a little longer than Guide Book time due to the conditions. It was much busier but again we had a great 3 course meal and got beds in a 4 bunk room.
'Is this really my summer holiday?'
Several bridges had to be crossed on route to the col.
Climbing to the col.
The final boulder fields required great care.
Much more like summer as we reach the Greizer Hut.
Saying hello to one of the hut ponies.
A well deserved beer and the view from the hut terrace.
The evening light gave some great views.
Day 7 - Up at 6am for an early breakfast and the sky was clear - great!!! The day started with 300m of descent followed by 1220m of ascent to the col. Much of this was aided by wires and ladders. There were excellent views especially during the descent to the Berliner Hut. We had to cross a couple of patches of old hard snow and on one of these we used the microspikes as it had a nasty run out below. The ascent was hard work but we managed to keep to the Guide Book time of 6 hours. The Berliner was very busy and we were only able to get a matratzenlarger for the night. It is an amazing hut and was used by elite German troops as a training base during WWII. The food was again excellent. A great mountain day.
The col we had to cross to reach the Berliner Hut.
Susan at the top of the 15m ladder.
Enjoying the exposure on one of the wire protected sections of the climb.
Looking back at yesterday's col.
On one of the steeper sections of the climb.
Starting the descent across an old snow patch.
Superb alpine scenery on route to the Berliner Hut.
The impressive Berliner Hut.
Matratzenlager for the night.
Day 8 - We were again up early for first breakfast as the Guide Book promised a hard day of 8 hours to the Furtschagl Hut - although the local Signpost time was 5 hours. The weather was again excellent when we headed off. The first obstacle was a river crossing due to a collapsed bridge. It wasn't easy to find a safe point to cross but eventually Susan just went for it and I had to follow. The climb to the highest col of the trip at 3081m was again tough with more steep scrambling aided by wires. Thankfully we met few parties descending but we met many as we dropped down the otherside. The descent was steep and loose so we had to take care to make sure we didn't dislodge rocks on to those below. As we descended cloud began to build but it stayed dry. Our time from Hut to Hut was 5 hours 15 min which seemed to impress the Guardian. We were pleased with it!!! The Furtschagl Hut is much smaller but we managed to get a room to ourselves despite it being very busy. As always we ate very well. A superb mountaineering day.
Susan 'boots up' in the grand entrance hall of the Berliner Hut.
On the ridge leading to the col of the day.
The ridge leading up to the col on it's left.
'I can't look up on this bit' - some steep wire protected scrambling led to the col.
On the loose descent boulder field.
More great alpine views on the descent.
The Furtschagl Hut.
Day 9 - Another early breakfast and we were away by 7.15am. Low cloud restricted the views but the going was easy at it was down hill or flat for the first 5km to the Olperer Hut. As we started to climb up to the hut from the end of the Schlegeis Reservoir the weather began to improve and by the time we reached the hut it was another glorious day. It was only mid-day and again we'd bettered Guide Book time. We did't want to sit around the hut for the rest of the day so decided to push on to the next hut (the Friesenberg) which the Guide Book gave as 3 hours away. The walk to it was excellent but only took 2 hours. The problem was that we were a day early and the Guardian told us that the hut was full (we later found out it was a Public Holiday weekend). He did offer us a bench to sleep on but this did not appeal so, as it was still early, we decided to descend to the valley and catch a bus to Mayrhofen where we were sure we'd find a bed. The descent took another 2 hours but was timed perfectly as we only had to wait 15 minutes for the bus. Unfortunately this change of plan meant that we missed the last day of our planned trek to the Gams Hut but once we'd booked back into Birkenhof Pension and had a long shower (the first for 3 days) this didn't matter. We'd had a great time up in the mountains.
An early start outside the Furtschagl Hut.
Looking back along the Schlegeisss Reservoir.
Clearing skies as we climb up to the Olperer Hut.
The Olperer Hut.
Superb views on route to the Friesenberg Hut.
Looking down on the Freisenberg Hut.
Day 10 - After a lie in we decided on an easy day. With only a light rucksack between us we took the Penken Cable Car to it's mid-station and then walked the Zirbenweg Trail. The weather was excellent and we had great views of the ground we'd covered on our trek. We were also able to sit and watch paragliders taking off - something Susan would like to have a go at sometime soon. A relaxing day.
Susan travelling light in the mountains.
Watching the paragliders taking off.
Easy walking but with some great viewpoints.
Mayrhofen from the Cable Car back down to the valley.
Day 11 - The rain was falling heavily again when we got up so we had a lazy morning reading and planning our last few days. By mid-day the rain was easy so we set off on a circular walk to Finkanberg detailed in the excellent Walking in Austria by Kev Reynolds The weather improved during the afternoon and we had some good views.
Looking down on Mayrhofen.
Susan samples the local Dumpling Soup in a hut passed on route.
On the trail to Finkanberg.
Descending into Finkenberg.
Day 12 - We woke to blue skies and decided that it was time to go for a bike ride. We'd found a good bike hire outlet in the town so got there at 9am and hired two Cube Mountain Bikes for the day. Armed with a map of suggested routes we road first to Hippach - Ramsau along a cycle track. From here things got more difficult as we climbed steeply up the valley side in a series of zig-zags to Ramsberg at over 1000m. We then had a sweeping descent around several hairpin bends to Zell am Ziller where we had lunch. From here it was back to Mayrhofen and then onto the Stilluptal Valley and Wasserfalls. This was another steep climb but the views made it worth while. The final descent back to town was superb - a cracking day out.
On the steep climb up to Ramsberg.
'The chair lift would have been easier'.
Having a wee rest on the way up.
On route to Stilluptal.
The Stilluptal valley.
Day 13 - The Ahornspitz is the highest mountain above Mayrhofen (2973m) and was used by Peter Habeler(one of the first two climbers to reach the summit of Everest without oxygen) as a training hill. With more good weather forecast we decided to climb it. We caught the second 'bin from Mayrhofen to Ahorn and then climbed to the Edel Hut. From here things bcame steeper and rougher. The final ridge was steep and loose and the scrambling required care. As we approached the first top it became clear that there was a problem higher up as a rescue helicopter came sweeping in and appeared to drop someone off. It returned shortly after and picked up the casualty. We weren't put off and after some wire protected scrambling reached the summit. There was alot of blood around but we couldn't find out what had happened. After a quick lunch we started to reverse our route taking care not to dislodge rocks on to those still coming up - it was becoming a bit like a busy day on Scafell Pike or the Ben. We wouldn't have beaten Peter Habeler but we again completed the route within Guide Book time. Another superb day out.
Looking up to the Ahornspitz from Ahorn.
Following in Peter Habeler's footsteps.
Great views from the summit ridge.
Looking up to the first top and summit on the left.
Susan on the summit.
Lunch stop with a view.
Descending to the Edel Hut and a cold drink.
Day 14 - Our last full day in Mayrhofen and the weather was again very good. We decided on a walk to Italy from the Schlegeiss Reservoir. We caught the first bus to the reservoir which was very busy and we had to queue German style (push and shove) to make sure of a seat. The walk followed a superb valley up to the Pitscher-Joch Hut just over the Italian Border and returned via the same route. A great way to end our walking in the mountains.
Heading for the Italian border.
Susan's first time in Italy.
The Pitscher-Joch Hut in Italy.
'Can we go on a beach holiday next year?'
Enjoying our last day in the Zillertal Alps.
The Schlegeis Reservoir.
Day 15 - The start of our journey home. We left Mayrhofen by train at around 10.30am after a last wander around the town. It had been a great base for another fantastic holiday in the Alps. By 2pm we'd reached a very hot Innsbruck and had checked into our Hotel for the night. This allowed us to have a good wander around the city centre which has some lovely old buildings.
'At home' in Mayrhofen.
Mayrhofen Church.
The steam train arriving in Mayrhofen.
Heading for the station and home.
Walking the streets of Innsbruck.
Day 16 - We were up and away early to catch the 8.35am train to Munich and the airport. It was another hot day. The journey went well and by 8pm we were back in Scotland thinking about where we'll go next summer.
A fantastic two weeks in Zillertal. We'd highly recommend it and the two Cicerone Guides we used:
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