Chamonix Diary - Part 2.

Monday 16 August – We woke to more heavy rain. We knew that any mountain area is likely to receive a lot of rain but had hoped for better weather. We decided on another valley walk and took the train to Argentiere. It was pouring down when we arrived so we wandered around the shops and other attractions trying to keep dry.

Eventually we put on full waterproofs and headed off for Le Lavancher via the Petite Balcon Nord. The walking was easy but it was good to get out for some exercise and there were plenty of interesting things to see.

After lunching in Le Lavancher we headed back to Argentiere via the Petit Balcon South. The rain had stopped but low cloud limited the views. We arrived in the village just in time for the next train back to Cham.

Disappointingly it was raining again when we went to bed but we vowed to make the most of the rest of the week.

Susan and the Le Lavancher Scarecrow.

 On the Petit Balcon South.

 

Tuesday 17 August – At 3.30am in the morning Susan announced that it was still ‘bloody raining’ but when we woke at 7.30am it had stopped and when we looked out of the window Mt. Blanc could be seen. What were we going to do?

After a quick flick through the guide books we decided on Montagne de la Cote. This is a very historic route as it was used by Balmat and Paccard to reach the high Bossons Glacier on the first ascent of Mt. Blanc in 1786.

We caught the train to Les Bossons and then a wee chairlift to the Chalet du Glacier des Bossons. From here it was a 1240m climb to La Jonction where the ridge we were climbing meets the glacier. In places there was some easy scrambling but generally the path was good and we even managed to beat guide book time. Disappointingly when we reached ‘Gite a Balmat’ - two large boulders where the Mt. Blanc first ascentionists bivvied before their historic climb – low cloud meant there was no view. However, as we climbed to La Jonction the clouds began to part and we got great views of Mt Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi. Fresh snow covered the rocks and the Bossons glacier giving the scene a wintery appearance.

After lunch spent enjoying the amazing location we headed down. At one point we were lucky to see a large serac collapse on the glacier and at another we were even luckier to avoid a rock which came whistling down from above.

On reaching Les Bossons we both agreed that this had been one of the best walks of the trip - the last two days of rain had been forgotten.

The Aiguille du Midi appears from the cloud as we climb to La Jonction.

Aiguille du Gouter from La Jonction.

 

Wednesday 18 August – The high tops were clear when we woke but there was full cloud cover. We decided on climbing the Croix de Fer (2343m) just over the Swiss border. The Cham Bus took us to the village of Le Tour at the head of the valley and from there we walked up to the Col de Balme where we crossed the border. Before the final ridge up to the Croix de Fer a sign warned that the way ahead was dangerous but the guide book suggested it was fine so we pushed on. It was much easier than the classic Lakes ridges and the view down the Rhone Valley made the effort worthwhile. The Chamonix hills were now shrouded in cloud and it was cold and windy.

Before descending back to Le Tour we climbed two more tops – Pt 2333 and Tete de Balme – and had a bowl of warming chips and a drink in the Col de Balme Refuge. On the descent it started to rain and it continued to do so into the evening. The previous night I’d tripped over in Cham and bashed my right shoulder and knee. On descent the knee was very painful.

On the French / Swiss border.

The Croix de Fer (2343m).

Thursday 19 August – We woke early in the hope of a clear morning to make the trip up the Aiguille du Midi worthwhile but the high tops were in cloud so we decided to leave it a day and go back to bed. When we got up later we decided on a fairly easy day as my knee was still sore. Going up was OK but downhill was painful so we chose to walk from Chamonix up to La Flagere and then to follow the Grand Balcon Sud to Planpraz where we could catch the cable car down to Chamonix.

Our guide book describes the walk from La Flegere to Planpraz as ‘one of the best in the Chamonix valley, a real must’. It wasn’t wrong. By the time we’d climbed to La Flagere the cloud had broken and while it never completely cleared we had great views all along the Balcon Sud. We took our time and even had an ice cream at La Flagere.

The Chamonix Aiguilles and Mt. Blanc.

From the Aig. Du Chardonnet to the Aig. des Drus.

 

Friday 20 August – Our last full day in Cham so we wanted to go up the Aiguille du Midi by telecabine – a trip I first did 30 years ago. The Telecabine Station was clearly visible from the apartment and on good days the queues were horrendous so we decided on an early start if the weather was ok.

The lights at the summit station could be seen when I got up at 6am so we decided to go for it. ‘Tourists’ mingled with the early morning ‘alpinists’ as we waited to board the 6.45am telecabine. The journey up is in two stages but you are whisked quickly up to 3842m where the affects of altitude can be clearly felt.

As we arrived at the summit the views were good but cloud was already starting to fill the sky so we took photos as quickly as possible. Very soon we were in the cloud and despite waiting for 2 hours it never cleared again. The trip had still been worthwhile especially for Susan who was amazed watching the ‘alpinists’ descending the knife edge Midi-Plan ridge. Several of them looked very nervous and one party turned back very quickly.

At the half way station at Plan de l’Aiguille we went for a short walk to Lac Bleu which was all I could manage as my knee was still very painful when descending.

We spent the afternoon wandering around Cham waiting for the Midi to clear but it never did. In the evening we had a last meal out which was excellent.

Alpinists on the Midi-Plan traverse.

The Cosmiques Arete and Mt. Blanc.

Susan and Mt. Blanc.

Saturday 21 August – Typically the sun shone from a clear blue sky as we left the apartment for the last time at 10am. We had time to have a good final wander around the town before our airport pick-up and it was great to see everything at its best. We vowed to return as there is so much more to do in this amazing place.

Unfortunately our flight back to Edinburgh was delayed for over two hours so it was very early on Sunday morning before we arrived back in Symington. By Sunday evening we were back in Cumbria.

Susan takes a last look at her favourite Chamonix shop.

Taking in the last day sun and the views.