Chamonix Diary - Part 1.

Saturday 7 August – We left Symington at 2.45am heading for Edinburgh Airport and an Easyjet flight to Geneva. After an excellent flight we arrived in Geneva at 10.15am where we were picked up by a Chamexpress transfer bus which had us Chamonix by 12.30pm. Within 30mins we were in our apartment (Apartment d’Aiguille ) looking at Mt Blanc and the Chamonix Aiguilles from our balcony. The weather was superb.

We spent the afternoon wandering around the town, buying supplies for the apartment and planning the next day’s route. After a meal out we had an early night after a long day but good day.

The view of Mt. Blanc from the apartment balcony.

Susan enjoying the Chamonix sunshine.

Sunday 8 August – Cloud covered the high peaks when we got up but the weather forecast promised a dry day. After breakfast we headed for the hill opposite the apartment and started climbing up to the Plan de l’Aiguille. The path zig zagged steadily up but it was a long climb and took over 2 hours. There were, however, superb views across the Bossons Glacier to Mt Blanc. From the hut at Plan de l’Aiguille the route became much easier as in contoured eastwards towards Montenvers but, despite the cloud, the views remained excellent. Before reaching the station at Montenvers we took a detour up to Signal Forbes (2198m). From this view point we could look across the Mer de Glace towards the Dru and the north face of the Grandes Jorasses – both stunning mountains.

The walk down to Chamonix was long and hot and we were both glad to get back to the apartment for a shower, a drink and something to eat. An excellent first day on the hill.

At Signal Forbes above the Mer de Glace.

Susan and the Dru - Signal Forbes.

Monday 9 August – A cool cloudless start to the day was very promising and we were again out and heading for the hill by just after 9. I persuaded Susan to take the cable car up to Plan Praz on the north side of the valley. From here we headed for the Brevent at 2525m along an excellent path. Once again the views in all directions were fantastic so we took our time to fully appreciate them.

From the Brevent we dropped down to the Bel Lachat hut taking lunch on route. It was then another long descent to Chamonix and a relaxing evening planning routes for the next few days.

Susan heading for Le Brevent.

Starting the long descent into Cham.

Tuesday 10 August – A thunder storm overnight led to a clear dry morning. We were up and out early heading for Argentiere by train. Our route climbed steadily through woods towards the Aiguillette d’Argentiere a rocky pinnacle which from certain angles reminded us of Napes Needle on Great Gable. Two climbers were climbing it as we approached and we watched one of them reach the top before we tackled the easy via ferrata which took us through the cliffs to Tete aux Vents. From here we joined the busier path to Lac Blanc – one of the most popular view points in the valley.

After lunch we descended to La Flegere where we decided on a cable car descent back to the valley at Les Praz. After a wee beer we caught the train back to Cham. A very good day on the hill and much easier on the feet without the long drop to the valley floor.

Susan tackles one of the ladders near the Aiguillette d’Argentiere.

Above Lac Blanc with the cloud shrouded Aiguille Verte as a backdrop.

Wednesday 11 August – We were again out fairly early but this time to catch the Cham Bus up the valley to Tre-le-Champ. Like the train that runs up and down the valley this bus is free to people staying in Cham and appears very popular.

From Tre-le-Champ we climbed a fine ridge up to the summit of Aiguillette des Posettes (2201m). This is an excellent view point but unfortunately today the higher tops of the Mt. Blanc massif were cloud covered. There was a cool breeze on the summit but we did manage to find a sheltered spot for a wee break. The descent was down the NE ridge to the Col des Posettes where we had lunch before descending to Le Buet. We timed this perfectly as the train back to Cham arrived just as we entered the station.

After a beer we had a wander around the town, which has more outdoor gear shops than the whole of the Lake District, before another relaxing evening in the apartment.

Climbing the Aiguillette des Posettes.

On the summit of the Aiguillette des Posettes.

Thursday 12 August – It rained heavily over night and the cloud base was very low when we got up. We decided on a wander around the town and went to the Guides Office to check out the weather forecast. It suggested a better afternoon so after lunch, which included Strawberry and Raspberry tarts, we decided to have a valley walk from Cham to Les Tines and back. There were several heavy showers but at times the clouds parted to give glimpses of the mountains. A different but enjoyable day.

 

Heading to the 'Guides Office' to check out the weather forecast.

Susan enjoying the valley walk.

Friday 13 August – We again woke to a low cloud base but the forecast promised some sunshine so we were keen to make the most of the day. We caught the train from the Aiguille du Midi station to Les Praz. From here we caught the La Fregere Telepherique and then the L’Index chairlift to gain height quickly. The chairlift ride, the first Susan had been on, was cold as we rose into the cloud but as we got off the clouds parted so we could see the L’Index and many climbing parties on it.

The first part of our route took us up to Col de la Gliere which included a bit of scrambling at the top. We then climbed up to Lac Noir which gave some great views as the clouds occasionally parted. After a short break it was back to the col and on to Col du Lac Cornu via a superb traverse path. We decided to drop down to Lac Cornu for lunch even though this required a climb back up to the col before we could drop down to Planpraz. Throughout the walk we had frequent sightings of Chamois and managed to get some photos of them. We had a wee beer at the Telecabine Station Cafe before taking the easy option telecabine back to Cham.

After a shower we headed out for a great Pizza and a wander around town.

Enjoying the scrambling up to Col de la Gliere.

Lac Noir.

Saturday 14 August – Another cloudy day. We headed down the valley to Les Houches on the Chamonix Bus. Our target was to climb Le Prarion (1969m) for some views of the normal route up Mt. Blanc. The path we chose up to the Col de la Forcaaz was steep and hot work. From the col the route followed a lovely ridge through forest and then a carpet of alpenrose. Sadly the views were limited by the cloud cover but we did glimpse the route up the Aiguille du Gouter used by most people climbing Mt. Blanc.

Our descent took us first to the Col de Voza and then steeply back down to Les Houches. The path we followed is used by Mountain Bikers and it was hard to believe anyone could ride down it!! By luck the Cham Bus was waiting and we jumped on as it started to rain.

Looking forward to the climb up Le Prarion.

Happy to have reached the top of Le Prarion.

Sunday 15 August – It continued to rain very heavily all night and was still doing so when we got up so we decided on a rest day. We went to have a look at the annual Chamonix Guides Fete but it was hard to get a good vantage point and even harder to understand what was going on given our limited French. Wandering around the shops reminded us of many wet days in Keswick or Fort William with hordes of walkers and climbers frustrated by the weather going from one gear shop to another. What Chamonix has that neither of the UK Adventure Capitals has is a range of Patisserie selling fantastic tarts which we had to sample.

Despite the weather we had a good day and there were occasional glimpses of the mountains to whet the appetite for the rest of the holiday. Worryingly, though it was still raining when we went to bed.

One of Chamonix's many outdoor shops.

One of Chamonix's fantastic Tarts.